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An Expert Colorist

Colourist operating from the Golden State who excels at silver hair. He works with Hollywood stars and Andie MacDowell.

What affordable item can't you live without?

My top pick is a microfibre towel, or even a smooth cotton shirt to remove moisture from your strands. Many are unaware how much stress a regular bath towel can do, especially to grey or color-processed hair. A simple switch can really lessen brittleness and splitting. Another inexpensive must-have is a wide-tooth comb, to use while conditioning. It protects the hair while smoothing out tangles and helps keep the health of the strands, notably following coloring.

Which investment truly pays off?

A high-quality styling iron – made with advanced materials, with adjustable temperature options. Grey and blonde hair can develop brassy tones or get damaged without the right iron.

What style or process should you always avoid?

Self-applied color lifting. Online tutorials can be misleading, but the truth is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. There are cases where individuals severely damage their locks, snap their strands or end up with bands of colour that are nearly impossible to correct. It's best to steer clear of long-term smoothing services on color-treated or grey hair. These formulations are often excessively strong for weakened hair and can cause chronic issues or color changes.

What frequent error do you observe?

Individuals choosing unsuitable formulas for their specific hair needs. A number of people misuse toning shampoo until their lightened locks looks lifeless and muted. A few overdo on protein-rich treatments and end up with stiff, brittle hair. Another significant problem is thermal styling minus a barrier. When applying styling appliances without a heat protectant, – especially on pre-lightened hair – you’re going to see brassiness, lack of moisture and splitting.

What would you suggest for thinning hair?

Shedding demands a multifaceted plan. For direct application, minoxidil is highly proven. I often suggest scalp serums with caffeine or peptides to enhance nutrient delivery and promote root strength. Incorporating a clarifying shampoo regularly helps clear out buildup and allows treatments to work more effectively. Internal support including clinical supplements have also shown great results. They work internally to benefit externally by balancing body chemistry, anxiety and lack of vital nutrients.

For people looking for something more advanced, platelet-rich plasma treatments – where a concentration from your blood is administered – can be beneficial. However, I consistently recommend seeing a dermatologist or trichologist first. Thinning can be linked to medical conditions, and it’s important to determine the origin rather than chasing surface-level fixes.

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Anabel Kingsley

Scalp and Hair Scientist and brand president of Philip Kingsley clinics and product ranges for hair loss.

How often do you get your hair cut and coloured?

I schedule cuts every ten to twelve weeks, but will remove split ends personally bi-weekly to keep my ends healthy, and have highlights done every eight weeks.

Which low-cost item is a game-changer?

Hair-thickening particles are truly impressive if you have see-through sections. These particles bond to your existing hair, and it comes in a assortment of tones, making it seamlessly blended. It was my go-to post-pregnancy when I had significant shedding – and also now while experiencing some marked thinning after having a severe illness recently. As hair isn’t an essential tissue, it’s the earliest indicator of health issues when your nutrition is inadequate, so I would also recommend a well-rounded, nutrient-rich diet.

What justifies a higher investment?

For those with genetic thinning in women, I’d say prescription hair-loss topicals. Regarding increased shedding, or telogen effluvium, buying an retail solution is fine, but for FPHL you really do need clinical interventions to see the most effective improvements. I believe minoxidil mixed with supporting compounds – such as balancing elements, inhibitors and/or calming components – works best.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Using rosemary essential oil for thinning. It doesn’t work. This belief comes from a minor study from 2015 that compared the effects of a low-dose minoxidil with rosemary oil. A 2% strength minoxidil isn’t enough to do much for hereditary thinning in males, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Likewise, mega-doses of biotin. Few individuals have biotin insufficiency, so consuming it probably won't help your locks, and it can alter thyroid level measurements.

What blunder stands out often?

I think the term “hair washing” should be changed to “scalp cleansing” – because the real aim of shampooing your hair is to rid your scalp of old oils, dead skin cells, sweat and environmental pollution. I notice clients skipping washes as they think it’s harmful to their strands, when in fact the reverse is correct – notably in cases of dandruff, which is worsened by the presence of excess oils. When sebum remains on the skin, they break down and become inflammatory.

Sadly, scalp requirements and hair preferences may conflict, so it’s a balancing act. But as long as you are gentle when you shampoo and handle wet hair with care, it shouldn't harm your hair.

Which product, treatment or supplement would you recommend for hair loss?

With female pattern loss, minoxidil is essential. Scientific support is substantial and tends to show optimal results when mixed with supporting compounds. If you're interested in complementary therapies, or you prefer not to use it or are unable, you could try microneedling (see a dermatologist), and perhaps platelet-rich plasma or light treatments.

In shedding cases, root cause analysis is crucial. Noticeable thinning usually relates to a health trigger. Occasionally, the reason is temporary – such as flu, Covid or a period of intense stress – and it will resolve on its own. Alternatively, endocrine issues or nutrient shortages may be the cause – the frequent culprits include iron stores, B12 and D insufficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus